Where I've been eating
About once a month, I want to tell you about the places I go to eat. I’ve not done that in a little while so I have a bit of a backlog. You will find that I eat out a fair bit, I’m likely to go for a catch-up over food rather than drinks. That said, this is a particularly large edition of this newsletter as I want to cover the last few months.
If you know me, you’ll know I’m fairly transparent, so if I am invited by the venue or their PR company, I WILL TELL YOU. It’s really that simple, otherwise, the bill is covered by someone around the table or we’ve split it, there is nothing dodgy to be found in these pages. Well apart from my grammar.
If I love somewhere, I tend to go back again and again, budget and location willing so you might see some repeat, although I’ll try not to post the same dishes again and again.
Let’s get cracking!
Ananda, Dundrum
I love Ananda, I’ve been going there for many, many years at this stage and I’ve never had a bad meal. I pop in maybe three or four times a year to eat my way through each new tasting menu. I love going in solo and luxuriating over their refined dishes for a few hours. Because I’m a regular, there are always chats and catch-ups to be had with the staff.
A bit out of town, but easy to get to as it’s in the Dundrum Shopping Centre and on the Green Luas line, Ananda is fully accessible for people with reduced mobility. My last visit was in April, and so I’ll likely be going in August or September.
Why I go there: It’s one of my favourite Indian restaurants in Ireland and the whole team is just brilliant.
Why you should go there: While it is Indian fine dining, the atmosphere is warm and casual and the service is second to none. Also, you must try their black lime sorbet. That’s the law. Booking is advised!
Big Fan, Dublin 2
Big Fan opened just before covid hit and somehow, they have come out of it as an established restaurant, if not an institution. There’s isn’t much I can say about it that hasn’t been written already. The food is fun and exciting and always, always, finger licking delicious. Rob reins supreme over the chaotic space but somehow everything just works just as it should. I love it there.
Why I go there: I go back every two months or so as I try and work my way around the menu but in all honesty, I always end up ordering the same thing again and again. This picture is of the featherblade dish and along with the corn ribs, I could eat it every day of the week.
Why you should go there: I think between the impossibly delicious food, cocktails that are completely different from the norm and the sound service, you just can’t get better value in town at that price point.
Oliveto, Haddington House, Dun Laoghaire
Oliveto looks over Dun Laoghaire pier, and if there is a restaurant with a better view in Dublin, I’ve not been in it. The head chef, Francois Jacusse, runs a busy kitchen that dishes Mediterranean fare with a local twist. The best ingredients are used and for the price point, the food is refined. The front of house is ran by Virginia Anton Cebrian and I think she is quietly brilliant.
Why I go there: I like to go there for lunch when it just opens and before the crowds arrived (it does get busy so book if possible). If you get really lucky you might get one of the tables outside but I don’t think you can book these actually. I love their starters and I end up ordering a few starters rather than a standard starter and main. This carpaccio dish is a starter and cost €15.00 but it was so good and so satisfying, it felt like a steal. The first time I went there there was a squid starter which I’m still thinking about. Fingers crossed it will come back some day.
Why you should go there: All of the above and the cocktails! I’ve never stayed over in the Haddington House as I live so nearby but I’m told it’s a joy of a hotel so maybe a nice local break some day?
The Seafood Shack, Killybegs, Co. Donegal
I stayed in Donegal for three nights in early June, in the middle of our heatwave, and boy did I strike lucky. The weather was beating down on us and Killibegs harbour has gorgeous deep blue waters. By the time I got there, all I wanted was some fresh seafood and if I could eat it by the sea even better. Comes in The Seafood Shack which is an offshoot of the Boat House operated by Gary and Mairead Anderson. I went for the squid and chips with pink sauce and it was DELICIOUS. That’s knowing that I actually normally don’t like deep-fried food, somehow, this was not greasy and the squid was just delicious and cooked perfectly. The queues outside the small van say all you need to know about the popularity of their take-away food.
Castlegrove House, Letterkenny, Donegal
This one was an invitation from the Ireland’s Blue Book. If you’re not familiar with them, they call themselves a romantic collection of Irish Country House Hotels, Manor Houses, Castles and Restaurants. To me they are the Irish Relais Et Chateaux and they are who I turn to when I want to buy a present that’s both thoughtful and always top quality.
I wouldn’t have thought of Castlegrove House if I hadn’t been going to Donegal anyway, but now that I’ve stayed and eaten there, I would drive the 3h30 hours to be there again. The Manor House was built in 1695 on the side of a great lake and is full of history. It was owned by the Grove family, who built it, up until 1989, when it was sold to the Sweeney family who still own it and run it as a family business.
It’s been modernised, of course, but it retains a lot of its original features and only the bathrooms are truly modern. If you’re in your rooms, ignore the plug sockets, and whisper Penelope Bridgerton three times before bed, you might well make up in Downtown Abbey. All jokes, glamour and mod cons aside, the thing that has stayed in my head in the last 6 weeks (gosh where DOES the time go?) is the food. On the grounds of the estate, there is a massive walled garden. Here, they do not grow vegetables for garnish, they grow them for food. This means that they don’t have to buy them in at all. I actually don’t know who the head chef is (shock horror and bad research on my part), but I bet he loves veggies. The menu is centred around what’s growing and available at the moment. I don’t like talking in absolutes, but the bowl of mussels you see below is the very best I’ve ever had. Not a drop of cream to be seen, but just local mussels highly cooked in a broth made with home grown vegetables and served with garden herbs. I don’t think I’ll ever forget the taste of that broth, clear, saline and packed full of umami. It was a sensational bowl of food and the standard of the whole meal was outstanding. Based on my stay and particularly that dinner, if you' already own a blue book voucher, I’d say go use it there, it’s a superbly relaxing and very tasty experience.
Loretta’s, Phibsborough
Located at Doyle’s corner in the aforementioned Phibsborough, Loretta’s is gorgeous. High ceilings, booths and round tables, lots of light and space and view that allows you to see straight into the kitchen. Jimmy Wiley is the owner/ head chef and the man can cook. He describes is food as modern, tasty and bold and it is all of that and much more.
Loretta’s is super casual but the food, while fun, is deadly serious. Dead seriously good that is. My phone recently told me that it’s exactly three years this week since I first went there, with my friend, Sinead Ryan. I’ve been going regularly ever since, often driving through town at rush hour to get there for dinner. There are not many restaurants, I will sit in my car for over an hour for. Loretta’s is one of them.
Why I go there: For me it’s all about the spicing, and seasoning, it is indeed bold. There’s nothing shy or muted about Jimmy’s food. He sources great meat and a lot of the vegs, he grows himself. I still think about the turf icecream he served last Christmas. Pictured below is a scallop starter and some seriously sexy green beans. Superb green beans in fact, with shallots, walnuts and lots of chives which I wouldn’t have thought to pair with beans. Simple but oh so delicious.
Why you should go there: Because, I think they’re madly underrated and I’m positive you would love it.
3 Leaves, Blackrock
3 Leaves is my second home. I love Santosh and Milie, who own it, very deeply. I eat there A LOT. I even sometimes paint my nails to go with their colour scheme. 3 Leaves is where I had my first pani puri and I will never ever forget it. I love bringing people there and popping their pani puri cherry. I may have a pani puri problem.
Why I go there: Santosh is a feeder, the last time I asked for dessert, he sent me half a chicken. Enough said.
Why you should go there: You need more Milie in your life. And honestly, you’ve not lived until you’ve been.
For now that is it. Next time, I’ll tell you about Piglet (i’m going shortly), the Purty Kitchen ( I was there for Bastille Day). Bramley’s of Abbeyleix, I need to tell you about Bramley’s of Abbeyleix.
I’m also going to Liath but that always takes me a good while to process and write about. Liath is in my book, simply the best restaurant in Ireland and I’m beside myself with the anticipation.
But for now, please eat more cheese.
K x